Drewism: Hawaiian Wine, How to Recognize a Wine Snob, and What I’ve Learned (Various Ramblings)

I’m back.  My utmost apologies for the extended hiatus I’ve been on, but work has consumed me as of late.  Over the last several months I’ve overseen almost 400 acres of new vineyards planted in Monterey, and as such, I haven’t had a rest since my last post, more than 2 months ago.  Wait about another 3-5 years and I can actually start talking about the wines that I had a hand in producing.  I’ve only recently come back from a much-needed trip to Maui, where I spent several days doing absolutely nothing.  It was fantastic.  And no vineyards or wine in sight.  Well, almost none.

On our second day in Maui, I found that there is a very obscure winery located on the eastern highlands side of the island called Tedeschi (website: www.mauiwine.com).  I’ll leave you to read about it if you wish, but in my experience the wines are probably best to be avoided.  Besides the fact that its 80 degrees year-round in Hawaii, I can’t imagine that winegrapes can actually ripen well in such a hot and humid climate.  And, guess what, they can’t.  The wines, as I learned, are made in large part from local fruit grown on the island (as opposed to traditional winegrapes), so what you get is white zin’s banished younger brother.  Yummy.  True story: the winery bottles a wine called Maui Blanc Pineapple Wine.  ‘Nuff said.  On to other things.

I promised Dorian that in contributing to this blog, I would give periodic updates and insight into the oftentimes crazy world of wine that I am a part of.  But its not always fun and games, as many might expect.  It’s a lot of hard work, certainly, though I’ve met many great people in the process, and I call several of them my closest friends.  Many of the shakers and movers I interact with on a regular basis are extremely friendly, laid-back, and likeable people – not at all the types of people one would expect in the business of wine.  Though I’m sure many could bore me to death with endless wine jargon, and at tastings most could overwhelm me with their knowledge of one varietals’ expression of place, most choose not to.  Unless you ask.  In an industry where the mantra is eat or be eaten (or more appropriately, drink or be drunk), its nice to be around good-natured people and talk wine without feeling as though you’re completely inferior.

Sometimes, however, I run into someone whom I would characterize as a wine snob.  For me, this is a strong word: snob.  Generally, this is someone so in need of finding a social niche through wine drinking, it’s not even about the wine.  It’s pretty easy to tell the difference between a wine snob and a wine enthusiast.  Wine snobs come in two flavors: the loud and boisterous, and the reserved.  You’ll notice the boisterous snob right away when you walk into a tasting room, and he or she is blabbering exaggerated wine observations that you know they just pulled out of their ass or off the first page of the Chronicle’s Wine section.  To be honest, it’s a pretty embarrassing sight to see.   The quiet ones tend to keep their comments secret, hiding their tasting notes in public places (this actually happens, believe it or not), and making grandiose observations like “slightly angular with a hint of burnt tobacco leaf” to describe a wine.  Most of us would just find this obnoxious and pretentious, myself included.  In private, these types of people basically just sit around telling each other how great they are - I know because I’ve seen it happen on more than one occasion.

Enthusiasts, on the other hand, are fortunately the more common type of wine geek.  They are usually more than happy to share some wine knowledge with you, and in my experience, no matter what your understanding or level of sophistication in wine, they are more than happy to talk with you for as long as you’d like.  You’ve probably met this type of person perhaps at a winery or in a wine bar, the type who would never judge your choice in wine, taste, or assessment.  And they would talk with you about wine instead of talking at you.

I like to consider myself the latter, as I’m sure every normal person would.  So without further ado, I’d like to let you in on a few things I’ve learned about wine over the years.  Some you’ll maybe find useful, others mildly ridiculous, but I hope you can go away feeling like you’ve learned something.  And know that you’re not snobbier at all because of it – you’re merely becoming more of an enthusiast.

1. Nearly everybody likes Chardonnay.  And California Chardonnay – in almost any price range – is the most idiot-proof wine in the world.  Not necessarily subtle, however.  But like a big greasy breakfast to cure a hangover, it gets the job done.  Wine snobs love to bash it, though you can have it both ways by saying to your friends, “Its become fashionable to dump on Chardonnay, but we think this Casa New Oak flavor is hard to beat.”  Viognier and Marsanne are way cooler, but you have to know what you’re doing.

2. Almost any zinfandel that starts with R is good.  For instance, Ridge, Rafanelli Ravenswood, Rabbit Ridge, Rosenblum, Renwood.  The same goes for any zin that ends in elli.  Like Martinelli or Tofanelli.  I’m speaking, of course, of red zinfandel.  About white zinfandel, you have my permission to turn up your lip in condescension.  Three-day-old bath water tastes better than that crap.

3. Avoid artichokes whenever you consume wine.  I only recently found this out while reading an article that artichokes contain an acid called cynarin, which makes wine taste sweet.  I’ll keep that in mind next time I try to bust out a bold cabernet with my BBQ steak and artichoke.  Dangerous also with wine is asparagus, which contains phosphorus and mercaptan, turning most wines ugly, especially whites.

4. Every five years there’s a great worldwide vintage.  Mind you, not every place in the world experiences the same years of greatness.  For France in general, and Bordeaux in particular, ’85, ’90, and ’95 were all stellar, 2000 was otherworldly, and critics are touting 2005 as the “vintage of the 21^st century”, though I’m not entirely convinced yet.  Stateside, ’93, ’97-98, and 2002 have been terrific vintages for Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa, 1997 having become world-renowned, and ridiculously expensive.  Last year California had a phenomenal growing year (while Europe experienced one of the worst), and our 2007 Estate Pinot Noir (presently in barrel), appears to be one of the greatest wines my winemaker has made in over 30 years.

5. There’s no such thing as bad champagne.  Unless, of course, its badly shipped or stored.  By champagne, I mean the stuff that comes from the region of that name in northern France and is imported to the states.  The bad ones don’t seem to get sent here (I wonder why).  There are perfectly decent sparkling wines from other parts of the world, but why bother when you can get the real thing  - a nonvintage brut - for practically the same price?

6. Any Italian wine that ends in the letters aia is very good, too.  This seems to be the result of the fame of Sassicaia, the so-called Super Tuscan Cabernet, or so I’ve learned.  Today, you can count on Ornellaia, Solaia, Lupicaia, Brancaia Tassinaia, and Piastraia.  I don’t quite know why, but these producers seem to make excellent wines.  If you have the time and money to seek them out, do so.

7. In a wine store, head straight for the South America section.Why?  Because in 5-10 years you’re going to kick yourself for not buying that case of Argentinean Malbec or Chilean Carmenere that has since trebled in price.  No where in the world can you find better value buys right now than from Chile and Argentina.  I tell this to everyone who asks me what I buy, yet I still see Yellow Tail hanging around in people’s kitchens.

8. Wine ALWAYS makes for a great gift, regardless of the occasion.  Keep in mind that people who usually give wine as a gift probably like wine as much as you do, if not more.  Return the favor.  Also, its always fun to find a bottle of wine that was made in your birth year, if you have the time and resources to look for it.  I was lucky enough to be born in 1982, a vintage still considered today to be the one of the greatest for both Bordeaux and Champagne in more than a century.  Keep that in mind, Mom.

9. White wine with fish, red with flesh is a pretty reliable rule.  But any idiot can follow rules – it’s far cooler to break them.  Pinot Noir can be great with salmon, particularly grilled salmon.  And its wonderful with paella I’ve found.  Sweetish German Riesling is always good with pork and/or veal; the same goes for Gewürztraminer and Thai food.  Yet Chablis with oysters in my opinion is a match made in heaven.

Hope these tips help. Enjoy!

Comments

[Scott Kieser]

I agree with most of what you said here, but will take issue with Numbers 5 and 7.

i've not had any undrinkable French Champagne, but have tasted some less than impressive wine in the $50.00 range. Jaqcuesson Cuvee 731 comes to mind, which really didn't taste of anything, in my mind, other than yeast. Then again, Champagne seems to be prized for its austerity above all else, so perhaps this is a wine many will like. I thought it was the worst QPR of anything I have ever tasted.

I do agree that California sparklers are over priced, but I think the solution for someone looking for inexpensive bubbly would be to look at places like the Loire Valley, and to Spain and Italy.
$18 dollars will get you a terrific sparkling wine from one of France's top winemakers, (the Baumard Cremant de Loire Carte Turquoise), and one with more flavor than an entry level Champagne.

Trader Joe's has a nice Vouvray Brut from LaCheteau with a nice mousse and fine little bubbles showing strong flavors of green apple, lime, and pear with just a touch of sweetness for all of $10.00. Its not terribly complex, but its fun and has more personality then most $40.00 -$50.00 Champagne. I would much rather have 5 bottles of this than 1 bottle of Jaqcuesson Cuvee.

Likewise, you can pick up a perfectly acceptable bottle of Cava or Prosecco for 11-12 dollars in just about any supermarket. I don't really like Cava much, but I think I am in the minority. Gruet, out of New Mexico also makes a highly regarded Champagne style sparkler for about $15.00. I have not tried it, but have never heard a bad word about it from anyone who has. The local wine writer in our daily newspaper adores it.

I think both Champagne and California Sparklers are terrible values and I think its a shame that so many people think that is the only option for sparkling wine. If you know where to look you can find Sparkling wine to be one of life's more affordable luxuries, and not something that has to be reserved for special occasions. I, myself, am just learning this lesson.

Moving on to South America, you aren't wrong that some of the better wine bargains come from Chile and Argentina and that budget wine drinkers would be wise to look into their offerings. It's a mine field, however. There are still a ton of offerings that could only be charitably described as plonk. I would advise anyone venturing into South American wine to do some research before making a purchase. Personally, I like the wines from Norton and Apaltagua. I especially enjoy the Everno Carmenere blend.

I don't see huge price increases coming over the next 5-10 years. I think the low prices are much more a function of the relatively weak currencies of Argentina and Chile, (and a lower paid workforce), then Malbec or Carmenere being under appreciated by the wine community. Thats not to say the economies of these countries couldn't grow rapidly in that time span and leave the purgatory of 2nd world status, but I wouldn't bet on it. Additionally, I think the dirty/earthy qualities of Chilean wine especially, will not appeal to much of the Yellow Tail crowd and that will keep the demand for these products from growing too rapidly. Chile and Argentina are not secrets to the enthusiast community.

Just my two cents. I really enjoy your blog.

[Scott Kieser]

I agree with most of what you said here, but will take issue with Numbers 5 and 7.

i've not had any undrinkable French Champagne, but have tasted some less than impressive wine in the $50.00 range. Jaqcuesson Cuvee 731 comes to mind, which really didn't taste of anything, in my mind, other than yeast. Then again, Champagne seems to be prized for its austerity above all else, so perhaps this is a wine many will like. I thought it was the worst QPR of anything I have ever tasted.

I do agree that California sparklers are over priced, but I think the solution for someone looking for inexpensive bubbly would be to look at places like the Loire Valley, and to Spain and Italy.
$18 dollars will get you a terrific sparkling wine from one of France's top winemakers, (the Baumard Cremant de Loire Carte Turquoise), and one with more flavor than an entry level Champagne.

Trader Joe's has a nice Vouvray Brut from LaCheteau with a nice mousse and fine little bubbles showing strong flavors of green apple, lime, and pear with just a touch of sweetness for all of $10.00. Its not terribly complex, but its fun and has more personality then most $40.00 -$50.00 Champagne. I would much rather have 5 bottles of this than 1 bottle of Jaqcuesson Cuvee.

Likewise, you can pick up a perfectly acceptable bottle of Cava or Prosecco for 11-12 dollars in just about any supermarket. I don't really like Cava much, but I think I am in the minority. Gruet, out of New Mexico also makes a highly regarded Champagne style sparkler for about $15.00. I have not tried it, but have never heard a bad word about it from anyone who has. The local wine writer in our daily newspaper adores it.

I think both Champagne and California Sparklers are terrible values and I think its a shame that so many people think that is the only option for sparkling wine. If you know where to look you can find Sparkling wine to be one of life's more affordable luxuries, and not something that has to be reserved for special occasions. I, myself, am just learning this lesson.

Moving on to South America, you aren't wrong that some of the better wine bargains come from Chile and Argentina and that budget wine drinkers would be wise to look into their offerings. It's a mine field, however. There are still a ton of offerings that could only be charitably described as plonk. I would advise anyone venturing into South American wine to do some research before making a purchase. Personally, I like the wines from Norton and Apaltagua. I especially enjoy the Everno Carmenere blend.

I don't see huge price increases coming over the next 5-10 years. I think the low prices are much more a function of the relatively weak currencies of Argentina and Chile, (and a lower paid workforce), then Malbec or Carmenere being under appreciated by the wine community. Thats not to say the economies of these countries couldn't grow rapidly in that time span and leave the purgatory of 2nd world status, but I wouldn't bet on it. Additionally, I think the dirty/earthy qualities of Chilean wine especially, will not appeal to much of the Yellow Tail crowd and that will keep the demand for these products from growing too rapidly. Chile and Argentina are not secrets to the enthusiast community.

Just my two cents. I really enjoy your blog.

[Drew]

Thanks for reading, Scott, I appreciate your input.

I agree with you about Prosecco and Cava - two incredibly underrated Italian sparklers that certainly deserve more attention. This is something I plan to dedicate an entire column to in the future. Gruet is also very good American bubbly, you should definitely pick up a bottle next time you are out.

As far as South American wines are concerned, you're certainly correct that it can be a mine field in the wine store. That and the American palate is still learning the intricacies of Malbec, Torrontes, and Carmenere, among others. Both Chilean and Argentinian wineries in large part seem to still be refining their product for an international audience, and in many cases, less-than desirable wine is the result. This is most likely simply due to flaws in the winemaking process above all else, and could also be the result of sub-par storage conditions during shipping. But I am confident that over time these things will work themselves out, and we will soon find far superior products from these two countries, and at bargain prices.

[Sara]

One bit I've learned was that when it comes to randomly picking up any bottle of wine, chances are if you like the wine label, you will enjoy the wine. It has been said that wine labels often reflect the winery and the people at the winery, so why not try it? I've yet to meet a wine I really hated, maybe not overly enjoyed, but no hate going on.

[Steve Maarten]

You might want to mention that it's essential to store wine properly, if it's not going to be enjoyed soon after purchase, or you risk damaging this delicate, and fragile, creation. You can find a quick discussion of the important factors in storing wine and a guide to choosing a wine cooler at www.WineCoolerReviews.com.